so i just took my 2003 explorer xlt to my mechanic. hooked up something under my dash (my check engine light is on) he said something about bank 1 and/or 2 is too lean. or something like that. said it is probably a vacuum hose leak. here is the issue iam having, i am sitting idle at a red light....my rpms are flying up passed 2-3 and the truck is bucking forward (if i dont hold down the brake i will hit the car/person infront of me) so its dangerous, i also noticed the driving is terrible.....taking forever to accelerate and get to the top speed i wanna go.....the truck sounds like **** recently, its driving me crazy, i also noticed today while driving, the rpms were going up but taking a long time to shift. i was reading about this vacuum leak involving leaking transmission fluid. would this vacuum leak also be the cause for my truck not blowing out cold AC ? its gettin hot....and i cant stand not having a/c if i put a can in it works for awhile, but never stays permantley. anyone know how much this runs you? (fixing vacuum hoses, replacing transmission fluid, and possibly spark plugs) ? thanks
if it is just that bro, your pretty close to a tune up.....tranny (ha! I said tranny) fluid, and spark plugs are in a tune-up.....shop around for the cheapest tune-up, then go to your local car repair stroe, and buy the vacuum hose, and tell them to just replace it while they are at it.....they will just lump it in....what does a tune up cost?? IDK....100-140 bucks...
or.... you could trade it in for a reliable japanese car like i did(ah...smugness). my 96 explorer should've been illegal to drive on the road.
driving the car like that can cause you THOUSANDS of dollars in damage because you are trying to save 50-200 dollars. nobody here can estimate your repairs without inspecting the car themselves. any estimate that isnt from some one who did that is worthless.
Whats up Sick? You have two separate issues here best I can tell from the information you provided: 1. A possible vacuum leak with is causing a fuel/air mixture issue 2. a leak in your a/c system. It's gonna take about 60 dollars to get the a/c fixed so you got air for a while. Car refrigerant is 134A which is different from the stuff in your a/c at your house. Also older cars have R-12 so make sure you get the right stuff. The 134A is the ozone friendly stuff. You can by a kit that I have seen at advanced auto parts that is 59.95 that has a leak sealer and a can of refrigerant. You know put the sealer in first. Hey also don't be a guy and not read the instructions the vacuum leak is causing your RPM's to jump and your car to run like doo doo when driving. The computer is adjusting the air/fuel mixture to do what it is supposed to make the engine run smooth. because the air fuel mixture is always changing.....well you know hard on the car. Your transmission shifts off of two things, RPM's/speed your going and vacuum. Obviously vacuum is already an issue so fix the leak and whala. the two work in conjunction with themselves. If your car is a little bit older get a flash light and look real close under the hood. Most likely near the engine block itself for a hose that is touching. If you look really close you most likely can find the leak and repair it yourself. it could be really small or a hose that has become brittle and dried out from the heat of the engine, or come unhooked all together. Last thing is the mechanic is referring to bank 1 or bank 2........which is the fuel injectors. Bank 1 on the passenger side and bank 2 on the drivers side. Hope this helps you good luck my friend!
As a mechanic I agree with eric. Take is to someone you trust as soon as you can and get it straightened out before it gets worse. Vacuum leak sounds about right and you might need a tune up but it's hard to say without looking at it.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4493345_check-engine-vacuum-hoses.html http://www.ehow.com/how_5925953_check-engine-vacuum.html I know rocky may disagree with me but I always try to work on my own car barring it being something electrical. Most of its basic mechanics,i.e. gears, hoses , etc. The only thing you would have to worry about is reseting a sensor in which case you will have to get it cleared, or breaking one.